I've been doing lots of research online to find the best articles for the "How to's" on dog training tips. Today I am adding "How to Stop Your Dog From Digging. I think we've all been there, I know I have. I also found "How to Clean Dog Urine" by the same author. And you can't tell me you haven't been there...



I'm going to continue with my research and I will post a new article each day to save you from searching yourself. Be sure to check back, maybe I'll hit on that one problem you are having. I think I will, because I have hit every problem there is with training my dog.



Digging Doggies - How to Stop a Dog from DiggingBy John Krenberg


Any dog can get into the habit of digging and it's probably one of those behaviors that you'd rather your dog go without. It is an instinctual behavior so stopping your dog from digging is not going to be easy. In this article we'll look at some of the places you can start. Here's how to stop a dog from digging:
1. Understand why your dog digs. They dig for many reasons including:
Instinctual behavior for hiding food and other reasons.
Because they are bored.
It feels physically good to them
To find moisture or a cooler area.
2. Filling in the holes.
Put charcoal in the hole. Then try refilling the holes with junk. Dogs quickly lose interest and pretty much stop digging. Fill the hole with whatever is at hand - dead leaves, sticks, pine needles, rocks or even dog feces. Fill the top 2 inches or so with dirt. The dog finds the stuff, gets discouraged and often quits digging. They seem to get the idea they'll never know where they'll find junk, and it's not worth the effort to dig only to find junk so they quit.
3. Consider punishment.
Punishing dogs is usually considered noneffective. At best punishing your dog for digging holes by yelling, slapping or hitting them will only stop them digging that hole, while you are around.
4. Surprises in the hole.
The Koehler dog method advocates filling holes with water and sticking dog's head under the water for a few seconds or so. This may not work with some breeds (e.g., Labradors), and may not appeal to you as a method to try. Alternatively, you can try burying a water balloon in one of the holes which will pop in its face when it starts digging (surprise).
5. Take away the boredom. Dogs often dig because they are bored. Your dog may be bored if they stare at fences for a long time, whine or engage in playful or 'hyperactive' behavior, including digging holes. To stop your dog being bored:
Entertain them with toys and play time.
Exercise your dog vigorously with walks or runs.
6. Construct a sandbox. Try to remember that digging is a natural tendency for dogs. So, if there is any place where your dog may be allowed to dig, you should encourage it (and only in that place).
Designate an area where the dog can dig.
Place the box in an area that is cool in summer and warm in winter.
Fence the sandbox and fill it with freshly tilled earth.
Bury treats and smelly things in the sandbox to encourage your dog's use.
7. Create discouragement.Your dog will only respond to the hole he has just dig if you punish him yourself. So you must find ways to "punish" your dog for the act of digging, while you are not around.
Place a sprinkler on a hose in the area the dog digs. While in the act of digging, turn on the sprinkler.
Bury a small balloon in the dogs hole and cover it with a layer or dirt. The unpleasant surprise when the dog pops the balloon will take away some of the dog's digging pleasure.
Bury chicken wire just under the surface of the dirt. The wire on the dogs feet will feel bad to them. This usually works best near the fence (see tips, below).
Try putting cayenne pepper in his holes. Some dogs like the flavor of hot pepper, so don't waste too much on this tip.
Some dogs hate the smell of their own feces. Unlike cats, dogs do not bury their waste. Putting some of your dog's own feces in the hole will make it less pleasurable for them. Although there are many dogs who eat their poop and will gladly see this as you burying their favorite treat. Depends on the dog.8. Remove temptation.
Dogs enjoy digging in freshly tilled earth. If you are working in your garden remove fresh dirt from your dog's reach with a fence or covering.
Go out and dig up any bones or other things your dog has buried. Do not let the dog see you do this. Fill the hole back in.
Keep your garden clean. - Remove attractive smells. - Deal with any rodent or other small mammal problem.
If you do gardening do not let your dog see you till or dig in the earth, as this would simply be positive reinforcement.
9. Enroll yourself and your dog in a basic training class.Basic training teaches your dog to:
See yourself as 'God' of your dogs. (humans are humans, not dogs. You are not leader of their pack. That is an outdated notion from the late 80's/early 90's that modern trainers worked very hard to dismantle and dismiss and has unfortunately resurfaced recently. They have a leader in their pack and it is one of the other dogs. You are more like a 'God' to your dogs).
Obey basic commands like "Stop", "Sit" etc. These are some of the things you can do to stop a dog from digging. But another thing to keep in mind is that some breeds actually enjoy digging (and it has nothing to do with obedience or boredom), especially primitive type dogs.
Research breed characteristics before buying a dog. If you cannot tolerate digging in an otherwise happy dog do not buy that kind of dog. Some primitive type breeds who love to dig for the joy of digging include Australian Cattle Dogs and the Portuguese Podengo Medio.
My name is John Krenberg, and I'm a happy owner of a crossed breed Poodle/Terrier. Training him is extremely important to me since I live in a high rise apartment. I read a couple of books about dogs behaving badly, but felt that I needed a step-by-step approach to correct his unpleasant behavior.
I researched the internet and came across SitStayFetch, which I quickly downloaded, printed and read in one evening. Now Sumo, my pup, is doing great! At only 5 months old he sits, lies down, heals, stays, and even comes most of the time. I can not expect too much at his age but he is getting better everyday. I strongly recommend it to every dog owner out there. Here is the link: http://www.dogtrainingpalace.info
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=John_Krenberg



How to Clean Dog UrineBy John Krenberg

Your dog will be lured back to a spot that smells of urine and feces. So a quick and thorough clean up of any accidents is essential to fast housebreaking. Here are some pointers for how to clean dog urine:
1. Put dogs out frequently, especially puppies.
I know it can be tiresome but you will save yourself a lot of time and effort. Remember, every time the puppy eats, sleeps or plays it's gonna have to go outside. Also give the dog/puppy lots and lots of praise for doing it's business where it's supposed to.
2. Be stern and consistent.
It's confusing for a dog if it only gets scolded sometimes for peeing on the floor. The lesson will be learned much faster if the pooch is scolded for every mess you find. Just don't forget to give Poochy some lovin' after about 15 minutes or so after the scolding.
3. If you can't be with the dog, keep it on hard floors.
For many people, this means barring the pooch in the kitchen or foyer with a baby gate. Wee-Wee Pads should also be left with the dog. These are small absorbant mats made with an attractant that dogs like to whizz on.
4. Find the dog urine with a black light.
Many pet stores and online vendors carry hand held black lights for just this purpose. Just turn out the lights and systematically search for the bright glow of urine. After all, cleaning dog urine is much harder if you can't find it.
5. Make a poultice.
For fresh urine: Patience is the key. For carpet with pad under it, it is important to remove the urine from the carpet as well as the pad. If the spot has been wet for more than 10 minutes or so the pad will have been affected too. You will need fresh cool water, thick cotton towels and some sort of weight, 5 to 10 pounds. Weights can be books, boards, steel workout plates, etc.
6. Use the principles of capillary action to remove the urine from the carpet and pad.
If done properly this will always work, it's physics. Start by placing the a folded towel that is larger than the spot on top of the spot. Place a flat board on top of the towel and place a weight on the board. The board is there to distribute the weight evenly on the towel, if you don't have a board place just a weight on the towel but make sure that the towel is thick enough that the urine will not wick up into the top of the towel and contact the weight. The towel should remain on the spot for at least 10 minutes. Do not pick the towel up at any time during the process.
7. Pick up the first towel and get a clean one ready.
Fold it the same way as the first. Pour some clean water on the spot, working from the edges of the spot to the center of the spot so that you don't spread the urine, the water spot will be just a little larger than the urine spot. Allow the water to work it's way into the carpet. It won't take long, 30 seconds to a minute. Place a clean folded towel on top of the water spot and put the weight back on top. This time wait at least 30 minutes for the urine to work up into the towel. Do not disturb the towel or the wicking action will be compromised. Lastly repeat this whole process again using 1 part water to 1 part white vinegar and let the towel and weight sit overnight. Pull up in the morning and let dry. There should be no smell when the carpet is dry.
8. Launder the towels well.
Keep old clean towels around the house for this.
9. Hire a professional for any large problem areas.
If you wish to attempt this yourself consider this. The affected area should be small, no more than a foot in diameter. Anything larger and you should hire a professional. It can be expensive so weigh the cost of the service against replacement cost and know that the odor can be dealt with but the stains will be permanent. Also there are several ways to go about doing this. The execution is identical to the first section but the chemistry will be different.
My name is John Krenberg, and I'm a happy owner of a crossed breed Poodle/Terrier. Training him is extremely important to me since I live in a high rise apartment. I read a couple of books about dogs behaving badly, but felt that I needed a step-by-step approach to correct his unpleasant behavior.
I researched the internet and came across SitStayFetch, which I quickly downloaded, printed and read in one evening. Now Sumo, my pup, is doing great! At only 5 months old he sits, lies down, heals, stays, and even comes most of the time. I can not expect too much at his age but he is getting better everyday. I strongly recommend it to every dog owner out there. Here is the link: http://www.dogtrainingpalace.info
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=John_Krenberg